I am top-posting this to retain the context, but my solution that I
suggested [and appears to not have made it to the list since no one has
commented on it.] will handle your situation reasonably well.
The RCA RC930, while it does plug into an electrical outlet, does not
use the electrical wiring in your home to transmit the signal. It uses
an RF signal between the two points. So, the only possible problem I
can see would be if the distance/obstructions inhibit the RF signal.
* To use the 'base' unit, worst case:
"...(it includes a screw-down terminal strip and a modular jack)
Plug an modular cord into the jack and then to the 'base' unit.
* To use the 'remote' unit, simply plug it into any electrical
outlet in the office and then plug your business phone set
into the jack in the remote. You can actually connect up to
eight 'remote' units to a single base.
* Perform the 'setup' that syncs the two units and you're done.
No cables. No wiring. No... Really quite simple.
IF, in fact, my earlier message did not make the list with the two URLs
for purchase of this type of unit, let me know and I will resend it.
Carl
On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 19:29:27 -0800, Mark Henigan wrote:
>> Mark Henigan wrote:
>>
>>> A very off-topic question aimed at anyone on the
>>> list with telco experience.
>>>
>>> I have a second phone line to install that only
>>> needs to run to one room. There is already an
>>> unused coaxial cable from a previous installation
>>> by a cable TV company connecting the area of the
>>> junction box to that room. The incoming phone
>>> line is only a two-wire connection. Would the
>>> impedance/capacitance/inductive load of the coax
>>> be compatible with a telephone connection? I'm
>>> trying to save the trouble of installing
>>> additional premises wiring in a house that we
>>> rent. Making adapters to allow modular
>>> connectors to interface with the coax is no
>>> problem for me so long as the characteristics
>>> of the line would allow it.
>>>
>>> TIA,
>>>
>>> - Mark
>>>
>>> Mark Henigan
>>
>Ed Durrant replied:
>> Phone lines are usaually 600 Ohm impedance, co-ax on the other hand is
>> 50 or 75 Ohm.
>>
>> I'd try it since it's there - the worst that I would expect is that the
>> volume on one or both phone units will be lowered and if that's the case
>> you can easily disconnect the cable. Chances are it'll work fine.
>
>Hello Ed:
>
>I think I need to describe the situation a little
>more clearly, given your reply and several others.
>
>I am talking about a second telephone line, not
>splitting a single phone line. The new line is
>for my business number. It runs to my home
>because I am only in the office with a door that
>bears my name one day a week. So, I chose to have
>the address listed as the office location but the
>installed line at my home where I could have more
>efficient access to it. My wife is my assistant
>and will be able to use the line for reception of
>messages and to schedule appointments.
>
>The telephone company (AT&T) originally installed
>it without installing a connector kit on the
>connection box inside a small metal access door
>on the side of the house. I called and was able
>to get them to send a repair person to install the
>connector kit (it includes a screw-down terminal
>strip and a modular jack) so that I can install
>the premises wiring.
>
>There is a run of coax from the access box to the
>room that I intend to use as an office. It was
>installed on the outside of the house and is no
>longer than 15 feet. There is no telephone line
>to that room. The other telephone jacks in the
>house are connected to our home number. This
>means that there is no run of cable or telephone
>wire to use to pull through new wire. There is
>also no point for access to the new line where it
>can be easily connected to the electrical power
>wiring of the house. Note that the other side of
>the wall where the access box is located is the
>garage and would allow a surface run of telephone
>wiring to a point where I could drill vertically
>to enter the wall of the office room. However,
>the coax is already installed and enters the room
>next to the desk. It will only carry standard
>telephony and possibly fax (not a show-stopper if
>it is impractical).
>
>Standard analog telephony uses approximately 40V
>connections, although Will makes the point that
>the ring tone is at 135V. The use of UTP for the
>majority of connections leverages both its
>ability to cancel inductive interference and its
>differential signal. However, a short run of
>coax can avoid induction and can carry signal
>through both shielding and center wire. In some
>audio frequency applications the shielding of
>coaxial cable (admittedly with different
>construction and characteristics such as
>microphone cable) is intended to carry current;
>although this causes ground loops in many
>configurations requiring isolation transformers).
>I realize the foil shielding of much HF coax is
>not a great conductor. However, it should be
>adequate from what others (Ed and Jeffrey) have
>said. If, as noted by Jeffrey the cable or
>connectors are of poor quality or condition, I
>can always install a new connector (I have a
>compression type installation tool.) or remove
>the cable and install telephone cable in its
>place. I'd rather avoid the latter since the
>cable enters the house of the second floor.
>
>So, thank you all for your suggestions and
>thoughts on this rather confounded question!
>I'll try the installation using the coax and
>revert to replacing (or adding a run of phone
>cable in parallel with) the coax if it does
>not work.
>
>Again many thanks! There is so much knowledge
>available on this list!
>
>- Mark
>
>Mark Henigan
>--
>
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